The Onion Lovers

Cawl Cennin - Welsh Leek Broth with Onion Cream and Fried Shallots

Leeks are the national symbol of Wales, and long ago, in an onion-hazed-filled past, their warriors, showing allegiance to Dadwaladr, the King of Gwynedd, wore sprigs of leeks on their helms to distinguish themselves from the Saxons. That was the day leeks saved a country. The enemy probably smelled them coming, trembled in their boots, said, “Oy! What a stink,” and ran. 

Leeks are the Central Asian cousins to onions, garlic, shallots, and chives, belonging to the lilacaea family, and grown by the Chinese, Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, and via the Romans, all Europeans, because they taste fantastic! The French went so far as to make them the base for their cold soup, Vichyssoise. If the French immortalize you, you know you are good.

The Welsh word “cawl” means broth/soup, implying this soup should be lighter in texture instead of a thick Vichyssoise. With that said, I used a little potato as a thickening agent, but there’s so little in there it is almost imperceptible, which makes me happy. If you want to use more potatoes, by all means, do.

CAWL CENNIN

INGREDIENTS

• 1 Tablespoon olive oil

• 1 Tablespoon butter

• 3 to 4 leeks, cleaned and medium diced (Important, use all the white parts and a little of the green. Save the rest of the green parts to use when making stock. Just make sure everything is clean of all sand before freezing.)

• 1 yellow onion, peeled and medium diced

• 1 shallot, peeled and medium diced

• 1 medium-sized potato, peeled and medium diced

• salt

• white pepper

• lemon, juiced and zested

• 1 teaspoon brown sugar (optional—use only if you think it needs a little sweetness)

• chicken stock or water

GARNISH

ONION CREAM

• ¼ cup heavy cream

• ¼+ teaspoon salt

• ⅛ teaspoon white pepper

• ½ shallot, peeled and diced

• 1 green onion, trimmed and minced

• 1 teaspoon Italian parsley leaves, cleaned and minced

FRIED SHALLOTS

• ¼ cup neutral oil

• ½ shallot, peeled and sliced

• salt

METHOD

Make the Onion Cream first.

1. Add your cream, salt, and white pepper to a cold bowl.

2. Whip the cream to soft peaks using either a whisk or a hand-held mixer.

3. Stir in the shallot, green onion, and parsley.

4. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

5. Cover and refrigerate until service.

Fry the shallots up next.

1. Heat the oil in a pot over medium heat.

2. Add the shallots and fry until golden brown.

3. Remove and, using a sieve over a heatproof bowl, drain the shallots immediately.

4. Season the shallots with salt.

5. Once the oil is cool, decant it to a jar so you can use it again.

Now, make the soup.

1. In a soup pot, heat the oil and butter over medium heat.

2. Once the butter is melted, add the leeks, onions, shallot, and potato.

3. Cover and let the vegetables sweat for 10 minutes.

4. Stir occasionally.

5. Once the vegetables have softened, season with salt and white pepper.

6. Pour in the lemon juice and reduce down to almost dry.

7. Pour in your stock or water.

8. Return the liquid to a boil before reducing it to a simmer.

9. Simmer for 20 minutes.

10. Stir in the lemon zest and rest off the heat for 10 minutes.

11. Blend up the mixture until smooth.

12. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

13. Return the soup to a clean pot and warm it until just beginning to simmer.

14. Ladle into warm bowls.

15. Top with the Onion Cream and Fried Shallots.

16. Serve immediately.